Callow Hall is set in the shelter of its own woodland facing a gentle stream and, beyond that, looks over the Dove Valley, where Izaak Walton himself used to fish. Callow Hall is also that rare and special thing-a small, family-run hotel. The daughter of the house, Emma, gives us a very friendly welcome and the owner, David Spencer, is an avuncular presence, full of stories of the hotel and the locale; his wife, Dorothy, completes the front-of-house team. This is a hotel you would come to for the food alone. Son Anthony is the chef; he trained at the Lygon Arms (Country Life, March 24 2005). We feasted on mussels, quail and duck, and home-made prune and cognac ice cream (the serving supervised by Miss Spencer). The style of food is certainly modern English, with an emphasis on local game and home-cured meats, but imaginative-everything felt just right. This is a small, 16-bedroom hotel of a type to be especially treasured when travelling the more peaceful corners of Britain. A sublime Victorian hall, surrounded by a 44-acre estate overlooking the valleys of Bentley Brook and the Rover Dove. Fine antiques and fireplaces combine with ornate ceilings to give a sense of grandeur to this country house, while the bedrooms offer comfortable fabrics and striking vistas across the landscape. Gastronomes will be delighted with the fine cuisine served in the formal yet convivial dining room. The Spencers take great pride in home baking, smoking and curing; crafts that have been passed down through the family since 1724. The menu includes local produce such as game and Anthony’s passion for wines is evident in the extensive list, which includes over 100 choices.